We’ve just returned from our day in Carcassonne, the last remaining fortified city in France. Perhaps intuitively, a fortified city is just as it sounds, meaning it’s a city completely surrounded or enclosed by walls, accessible only from a main gate and typically protected not just by walls, but by one or more moats. In Europe’s history, there were many fortified cities, and Carcassonne offers one the opportunity to walk back in time, hundreds of years. Today, Carcassonne’s moats are dry and there is no danger of surprise attacks from boulders tossed over the walls by catapults. Within the walls of Carcassonne is a bustling village, full of tourists from around the world as well as inhabitants and the thousands of workers for the myriad shops, restaurants, and hotels. Carcassonne offered us a more traditional tourist experience versus that of a pilgrim, but the primary reasons we visited Carcassonne were twofold: The Basilique des Saints Nazaire et Celse and The Notre Dame De L’Abbaye, which lies just outside of the walls of the fortified city.
When first approaching the walled city of Carcassonne, the imposing structure of the walls and towers was impossible not to admire. It was as if I was approaching the Middle Ages. Literally walking across the gate that stretches over the once fearsome moat, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Carcassonne actually is surrounded by a double-walled fortress, so after crossing the gate one first enters a type of alley that circles the city, in between the walls, before continuing through the second entrance and into the city. Almost immediately after entering, we encountered people after people, walking tightly through the ancient streets, in and out of the shops and restaurants. The congestion of the inside city is in great juxtaposition to what one experiences before entering. We made our way through the masses to the Basilique des Saints Nazaire. The Basilique, which actually stands on the grounds of a Visigoth place of worship from the 5th century as well as the original, Romance style Catholic church built in the 11th century but mostly destroyed when the current structure was
re-built in the 13th century in the Gothic style. The basilica has elements of Romance and Gothic architecture and is a wonder to the eye. Of particular significance to our Dominican tradition is that St. Dominic served as pastor for the church during his years in the Fanjeaux area, and historians believe he celebrated Easter mass in the church in 1213. The massive size of the Basilique and its beautiful stained glass windows were inspiring, but it was once again the awareness that St. Dominic had been present that was so impactful. The physical surroundings of the fortified city, I suspect, enabled me to even more fully immerse myself into the moment.
After we left the city, we walked down one of the border roads to visit The Notre Dame De L’Abbaye, which is the location where, each summer, the faculty, staff, and students from Dominican colleges who participate in the Fanjeaux program are housed. Visiting the Abbaye was helpful for me to have an image of where summer program participants are housed. In addition, the Abbaye also was another of the churches where St. Dominic preached. Our group participated in a short prayer service in the chapel, singing together the Dominican Blessing. Since first witnessing the Dominican Blessing at Albertus, I’ve developed a huge appreciation for its deep meaning and the power of its words and accompanying musical harmony when sung. I am grateful to have had the opportunity to share in offering that blessing in such historic space with colleagues and friends from our extended Dominican family.
Tomorrow we will drive an hour and a half northwest to spend the day in the city of Toulouse. I’m already looking forward to that experience.